The Sailor's Church
Courtesy Stephen Govier, Suffolk historian
The engraving
above is from John Ogilby's map of
Ipswich, 1674.
2016
images
Above: the church from the south-east
corner showing the diagonal path to the priest's
door into the chancel. Once the whole churchyard was surrounded by
walls and a gate would have enabled access to this path.
Above: the church from the
nort-east corner.
Although
St Clement Church doesn't appear at first to have much to offer the
lettering-hunter, it
does have historic texts connected to it. The church was declared redundant in the
early 1970s. Immediately outside the west door of the church is a stone
obelisk, apparently erected in 1996 after the refurbishments following
a disastrous fire which badly damaged the interior and the 1880s roof.
The fire, September 1995
The story is told that in September
1995, during a period when the church was being used to store props
from the Wolsey Theatre, some criminals believed that it actually
contained supplies intended for Bosnian refugees. They broke through
the mesh protection of a stained glass window to the east end of the
south aisle of the church (away from public view, being the
night-time), smashing the rather fine Victorian window to gain access.
Being somewhat disappointed by the theatrical contents of the church,
they set fire to it. The Ipswich Historic Churches Trust, having cared
for the church since 1981, was able to put it back in order. Almost
two-thirds of the roof covering was lost, but the Victorian rafters
only needed cleaning. The replacement interior roof we see today
presents a rather ‘new’ appearance for a medieval church. The tower has
also been restored by the Trust. The Royal Coat of Arms, dating to the
1660s (shown below) remarkably survived the blaze and it, and the
scrolled mottos were also restored by the IHCT.
The Sir Thomas Slade obelisk
See
our Plaques
page for the full text. Two famous mariners are buried at the church,
their whereabouts unknown: the
designer of Nelson's flagship, Sir Thomas Slade and Thomas Eldred (1561–1624), who had a
house (now demolished) at 97 Fore Street (shown on our Isaac Lord page), immediately south of the
south porch. Here he carried on a chandler’s business after his sea
voyages were over. Eldred sailed with Thomas Cavendish as his navigator
and was one of only fifty men to survive this, the second
circumnavigation by Englishmen.
Have
a look at our Street furniture
(Waterworks) page
for an 1881 map which includes the church.
Sir Thomas Slade Court
Note: the address of
the business(es) in the nearby Parochial Church Hall (see below) has been named 'Sir Thomas Slade
Court' – accessed from Star Lane:
2018
images
The northern part of the St
Clement Parochial Church Hall site is now a car park and the entrance
off Star Lane (close to its street nameplate – see our Street
furniture
page under 'Ground level (Ipswich Corporation Water Works)') is
labelled 'SIR THOMAS SLADE COURT', once again memorialising the
designer of HMS Victory; see
the Slade memorial above.
The tower
The church tower behind the above
obelisk features two of the
signature anchors of St Clement on one face. Among many traditions of St Clement
there is a fascinating one. St. Clement was exiled to the Crimea and
was condemned to work in the marble quarries there (he is, amongst
other things the patron saint of stone-cutters). He was subsequently
martyred in AD98 by being thrown into the Black Sea with an anchor tied
round his neck. His friends were grieved that they could not recover
his body, so they begged God to tell them how it could be found. Their
prayers were answered, for the sea retired and when they followed the
receding waters they found his body enshrined in a beautiful temple
built by angelic hands. The anchor is now St. Clement’s symbol. He is
sometimes represented with a fountain near him, which is said to have
sprung up when he and his fellow workers were dying of thirst in a
desert place among the quarries where he was condemned to work.
2014 images
These notes on the church,
initialled 'kw 2013' (Ken Wilson) give us more information
on the importance of St Clement.
"St Clement's is one of our twelve surviving medieval churches (only
York and Norwich have more) and of the half of these that have been
declared redundant it is, sadly, the only one for which a use has not
been found*. It is therefore cared for by the Ipswich Historic Churches
Trust [see Links]. Although the church now
looks a little folorn it is still very
impressive – certainly from the outside and the interior perhaps
even more so. It is the only St Clement's in Suffolk§.
The main structure dates from the late 14th and early 15th centuries,
although the upper part of the tower is Tudor [1485-1603] and the
chancel was rebuilt in 1860 to the design of Frederick Barnes. It is
one of our three dockside churches and was long known as The Sailor's
Church; many interesting monuments attest to this association. The
circumnavigator Thomas Eldred and Thomas Slade the designer of Nelson's
'Victory' are the two most famous burials here.
The tower holds six bells by John Darbie of Ipswich and the clock has a
carillon (now in need of repair) from which every three hours during
the day, hymn tunes once rang out. This was a notable local feature and
was for many years celebrated by a nearby inn called 'The Musical
Clock'%.
Two small monumental brasses, one missing a figure, are to be seen at
the east end of the nave and in the south aisle there are indications
that a third one has been lost.
The 15th century font depicts the four evangelists along with shields
and lions but at the base, strangely but not unusually, there are wild,
hairy men bearing clubs±.
The carved and painted royal arms survive from 1661when Charles II of
England, Scotland &
Ireland was crowned in Westminster Abbey, for the second time; the arms
feature, unusually, images of Adam and Eve at the base. The
organ now welcomes parishioners in Selworthy, Somerset.
There are three good Victorian stained glass windows and a very
impressive east window of modern glass that commemorates those of the
parish who fell in the Second World War. Below it the fine reredos is a
reminder of that earlier conflict."
[*This sheet was handed out at an event in May 2014 at the church (when
the photographs, below, of the interior were taken) when the late Dr
John
Blatchly, Chair of the I.H.C.T., spoke eloquently and plans were laid
for conversion of the church into Ipswich Arts Centre, similar to those
in
churches in Norwich and Colchester.
§ Interestingly, there once was St Clement's Chapel in
Harkstead Parish, last recorded in a 16th century will. Its cemetery
was named as a boundary later in the same century. Its site is close to
the shore of the River Stour, on the south of the Shotley peninsula.
The dedication to St Clement has Danish links and points to the
trans-North Sea connections established after the conquest by Cnut
(1016). (Information from Laverton, S. see Reading
list.)
%An
inn, its location somewhere near to the church, called The Musical
Clock dated to before 1744 and closed down in the 1880s, so it seems
unrelated to the carillon, which was installed in 1884. Information
from the Suffolk CAMRA site, see Links.
± The St Clement
font is shown further down this page.]
In 2016 the church started its slow, steady
transformation into Ipswich Arts Centre.
Gargoyles
2019 images
Two carved stone gargoyles can be found either side of a buttress in
the north-east corner of the church.
Strictly
speaking, a gargoyle
is a water-spout – often grotesque in form – designed to carry water
from a roof outwards to the ground and away from the exterior walls of
a building. The features here carry spouting (which penetrates the
flint wall) below the heads which delivers the rainwater into
decorative rain-hoppers.
The right-hand example is the slightly more nightmarish of the two, but
has suffered some damage and lost the lower jaw.
Clock and carillon
2018 images
The north face of the tower
bears a pierced clock dial with gold Roman numerals and hands, the
flint flushwork showing through. The
south carries a black convex clock face with gold Roman numerals and
hands, all set in a stone roundel against the flint breaking a stone
cornice below. Both are late 19th century additions. In 1884, a clock and mechanical chiming
mechanism – known as a carillon, which was the gift of Felix Thornley
Cobbold (who was also the befactor of the nearby Fore Street Baths, also Gippeswyk Park and Christchurch Mansion), was installed. The
clock and mechanism were built by Gillett & Co Steam Clock Factory,
Croydon. Chiming every three hours, a different tune was played on the carillon on each day of
the week. It has remained silent for many years, but in 2018 the
Ipswich Historic Churches Trust are installing an electronic chiming
mechanism to revive the atmospheric sound of church bells ringing out
hymn tunes.
See
our page on Public clocks in Ipswich for a
view of the church and its clock(s).
Inside the church: the nave
Looking towards the tower and
belfry, we find serpentine scrolls painted on the plaster on either
side of the carved, painted coat of arms with the legends:
'CHRIST
in you the Hope of
GLORY ...
Which hope
we have as an
Anchor of the Soul'
2014
images
Simon's
Suffolk Churches (see
Links) tells us that: "The royal arms, which
fortunately survived the fire, are probably the best example of
Ipswich's familiar Charles II sets - these are different to the others
in that they are carved and gilded rather than being painted on boards
or canvas." Dating from the Restoration of Charles II in 1661, it
shows, perhaps unusually, two small figures between the lion
and the unicorn rampant and below the central Order of the Garter
enclosing the crest.
The royal arms of
Charles II: who are these people?
Above images: these curious features can be found on
the front facade pargeting of the Ancient
House in Butter Market (top), also the interiors of the Church of
St Clement (centre) and the Church of
St Margaret (bottom), all in Ipswich. The Church of St Stephen has a similar
royal arms, too. As far as we can tell these are the only royal arms
which feature the two tiny figures below the central crest. The late
John Blatchly in his guide book to St Stephen believed them to be Adam
and Eve – they seem to be naked in all examples – recalling the Garden
of Eden. Of course, the 1660 Restoration following the fall of
Cromwell's Protectorate (1653-58) was not only of the King, but also of
the established church: the Church of England. So a subtle reference to
biblical original sin would have been appropriate. However, Mike
Garland
– Ipswich Tourist Guide and Morris dancer – has come up with the
following explanation for the two figures. Six
Englishmen [plus assistants] went to the continent to escort Charles II
back to England to take up his throne. The two Ipswich men in that
group were [Leicester Devereux] Viscount Hereford of Christchurch Mansion (he was responsible
for the rebuilding of the Mansion after its disastrous fire in 1674)
and Cave Beck - Master of Ipswich School. Mike is intrigued by the
theory that the two figures beneath the crest are representations of
these two Ipswich men.
Memorials in the nave
There are a number of
memorials in the church including several relating to the famous
Cobbold family of the Tolly Cobbold brewery.
A variety of
memorials in a
group and a square tablet mounted diagonally (see also the tablet
dedicated to Rev. George Routh below):
'To the
Glory of God
and in
loving remembrance
of His faithful Servant
ADELA HARRIETTE
COBBOLD
-1837- -1917-
this memorial is
placed by her children'
St Clement,
as well as being
known as 'The Sailor's Church', can also be thought of as 'The Cobbold
Church', as we shall see.
Looking towards the chancel,
there is further lettering high up and difficult to capture:
'GLORY to GOD in
the HIGHEST'
Below left:
'Here
Lyeth the Body
of Mary the Wife of
Capt. SAML.
GREEN
Late of this Parrish
This Stone never to
be Removed and to
Disanall the will of
ye Dead is not Good
1723.'
The
word 'Disanall' probably means disannul
or ‘declare to be invalid’; this amounts almost to the threat
of a curse on anyone who removes the stone. The double-'r' in 'Parrish' is somehow
satisfying.
Above
right:
'In Memory of
THOMAS WARD Efqr:
late a Captain
in his Majeftie's
Royal Navy
dies 19th. Janry.
1773
Aged 59 Years.
And of REBECCA his Wife
who died 10th. May 1797
Aged 85 Years'
The chancel
2018 image
Dating from 1860, the chancel is less spacious than the rest of the
(mainly 15th century) church. The broad chancel arch is largely 19th
century, its chunky, shaped timber base shown above. To the right of it
is a mural memorial (see close -up above right) with a skull bearing an
olive wreath sitting on a Hebrew book, with a book upright on each side.
Below: the east window, partially obscured by the reredos, features
several lettered passages. The largest of these is the assymetrical:
'GO
TO PREPARE
A PLACE
FOR YOU'
2014
images
Behind the altar is an oak reredos
(altar screen) which was placed there – like the tablet in the south
porch – in memory of those who died in World War I. Behind the reredos
is the great east window which reminds us of those who fell in World
War II. The beautiful glass in this window was placed here in 1948-9 to
replace that destroyed by the bombing of the war years. In 1949 the
window was dedicated to the memory of Dr Ward who served and died in
the war.
2018 images
Visible around the side of
the screen is the scrolled dedication to Richard Fowler Ward.
Hand-written on the small, pale green lozenge at lower right beneath the scroll
is the 'signature' of the window-makers:
'Abbott & Co. Ltd. Lancaster.'
The reredos does obscure some
of the lower part of the east window. The pierced upper part of the
reredos is damaged to the right and one wonders if this occurred when
the screen was, presumably, removed for the fitting of the window.
Beneath the crucifix is an
inscription in gold capitals:
'TO THE GLORY OF GOD AN IN MEMORY OF
THE MEN OF THIS PARISH AND THOS E
CLOSELY
CONNECTED WITH THE CONGREGATION
ATTENDING THIS CHURCH WHO MADE THE
SUPREME SACRIFICE DURING THE
GREAT WAR 1914 - 1918'
The reredos has been fitted so as
to obscure more: the decorative stonework panels which once would have
acted as the backdrop to a crucifix on an altar-table bear
religios texts in black and red characters. The Lord's
Prayer is fully visible to the
left, then the Ten Commandments are obscured on the panels at each side.
The Apostles' Creed is fully
visible to the right of the reredos.
There is a hand-painted
frieze featuring the initials 'ihs' (see our page on the Church of St Peter for an explanation)
in dark red with a flower
motif against dark brown (varnished?) plasterwork. This frieze lines the walls of the
chancel.
Below: some of the decorative
floor tiling in the chancel.
2014 images
Set
into the floor in front of the chancel:
'The Vault of the
Rev. GEORGE ROUTH,
late Rector of
this Parish,
1821.'
2018 image
In the central aisle, west
end:
'Here
refteth the Body of
IOHN DOCKIN
of this Parifh Mariner
and Mafter who departed
this Life 30th March 1728
Aged 45 Years.'
The baptistry and font
William Dowsing's destruction of religious images
The rather fine
baptismal font is tucked away in the south-west corner, perhaps removed from the church and possibly
plastered over to
avoid the destructive attentions of puritans in the century following
the dissolution of the monasteries (1536-1541) and establishment of the
Church of England. The Earl of Manchester gave Parliamentary commander William Dowsing (1596–1668) the brief of
enforcing the August 1643 ordinance against religious images, seen as
idolatry, in the eastern counties during the English Civil War
(1642–1651). Dowsing conducted a relentless campaign of iconoclastic
reformation
on a scale that does not appear to have been undertaken anywhere else
in the country, including London. Over 250 churches in Cambridgeshire and
Suffolk were 'purged'. This is why so many Suffolk church fonts,
sculptures and figurines have their faces knocked off or obliterated.
The font was rerturned to the church once Charles II had regained the
throne in 1660 (see also the Royal Arms, above). Its present site in the west end of the south aisle,
forming a
well-lit Baptistry, was probably the work of Victorians, perhaps at the
same time that the chancel was rebuilt; the stepped plinth on which the
font stands is Victorian.
The font is octagonal in shape. Round the sides are emblems of the
Saints: winged ox (St Luke), winged lion (St Mark), eagle (St John) and
a seated, winged angel with the face of a man (St Matthew). The
contemporary churchwardens had their initials (‘FS’: Fitz Sample, a
local baker and ‘JK’: John Keeble, a mariner) scribed on the lower
frame of the winged angel panel (visible in the photograph above
right). On the base,
contrastingly, are the figures of wild, hairy men (above right). The
font cover is plastered/painted timber of Victorian manufacture.
A refurbished memorial stone to Thomas Cobbold which
has been mounted on the wall
near to the font:
'To
the Memory
of THOMS. COBBOLD,
Common Brewer,
who departed this life
April the 21st. 1767,
In the 59th. year
of his Age.'
He is described here as
‘Common Brewer’, probably a trade term meaning that his brewery sold
beer wholesale as well as selling through his own outlets (thanks to
Anthony Cobbold of the Cobbold Family History Trust – see Links).
2018 image
Above: the Church of St
Clement in the snow, March 2018.
Boundary markers
Boundary
markers can be found for St Clements parish which stretches all the
way from the Wet Dock to St Clements Hospital in
Foxhall Road. Such things happen, no
doubt when you have three large parish churches within about a mile
along the northern edge of the Wet Dock (including St Mary-at-Quay and
St Peter's Church). You can see the
parish marker on our Old Hospitals page. See our Boundary marker
gallery for further examples.
'St.
C+B'
These images show two
stone block markers built into the walls of the Jewish Cemetery, lying between Star Lane and Salthouse
Street. On the outer wall,
close to the gate:
2014 images
The marker inside the Jewish
Cemetery wall is better defined, but almost impossible to capture
with
our camera when
the gates are locked (which most of the year):
See our Boundary markers gallery for better
images.
Beating the Bounds
Two sources for 'Beating the Bounds' of St Clement Parish:
The Ipswich Society's Newsletter (October 2016, Issue
206) carries a
reprint of an article about this ritual in 1895.
To accompany this, see the set
of photographs of Beating the Bounds on the Ipswich Historic
Churches Trust website.
See Links for both organisations.
Our Jewish
Cemetery page carries an Edwardian photograph of the bounds-beaters
of St Clement Parish.
'St Clement's Parochial Hall'
The nearby St Clement Church
Hall which fronts Grimwade Street once bore incised lettering below the
left hand window. See the 1983 photograph below:
'ST.
CLEMENT'S PAROCHIAL HALL
[UNREADABLE]'
Photograph courtesy The Ipswich Society
We assume that this large name
tablet was covered with cement (photographs below) when the
church sold the hall for commercial use. In 2013 it is a private
gymnasium.
2013 images
The early
19th century house
visible to the left of the hall was the vicarage of St Clement at 68
Grimwade Street. It is Listed Grade II.
[UPDATE 19.12.2013: "The talk you gave at Museum Street
Church on Wednesday evening was a rewarding demonstration of how one
can so easily miss enjoyable details of the local area. Thank you for
that.
I have been a resident of Ipswich
for all of my seventy-four years and thus soon found my way to your
very interesting website, of which, so far, I have not had time to
examine in depth. However, I believe the two attached pictures, that I
took, in the pre-digital age of – I think the mid nineteen-eighties –
might actually be a small improvement on the relevant ones you already
have. Please use them as you wish.
Seeing Anthony Cobbold in the
audience on Wednesday, for obvious reasons, I have also sent the
pictures to him. Best Wishes, John Bulow-Osborne." Many
thanks to John for the excellent photographs and comments. He also contributes much of our Lost trade signs
gallery.]
c.1985 images courtesy John Bulow-Osborne
'ST. CLEMENT'S PAROCHIAL
HALL
OPENED JUNE 12TH. 1903 BY
JOHN MURRAY COBBOLD'
At last we can read the
nicely chiselled lettering below the east window of the hall and can't
help speculating why someone has bothered to cover it up with cement.
The Cobbold Family History
Trust (always
an invaluable
resource for all things 'Cobbold': see Links)
tells us that John Murray
Cobbold (1897-1944) was an '8th generation Brewer. Founder of Ipswich
Town Football Club'.
"The
sixth John Cobbold, grandson of the Earl of Dunmore, must have
vexed his parents for he was nicknamed 'Ivan the terrible.' It stuck
and he was known as Ivan for the rest of his life. He joined the Scots
Guards in 1915, was injured but not seriously in France and left the
army at the end of the war.
He was a keen sportsman and as one of the best shots in the country it
was a pursuit he shared with King George VI. He joined the family
brewing business and was present at the 200th anniversary celebrations
on 30th July 1923 at Holywells succeeding to the chairmanship on his
father's death in 1929.
Following a chance meeting with Sir Samuel Hill-Wood, Chairman of
Arsenal and a visit to Highbury 'Capt.' Ivan (as he then was) put up
the money necessary for Ipswich Town Football Club to turn
professional. The amateur club had been founded in 1878 by the boys of
Ipswich School under the presidency of Thomas Clement Cobbold MP
(1833-1883) his great uncle, with a distinctive Corinthian culture
which survives to this day.
WWII saw him back in uniform now with the rank of Colonel only to be
tragically killed when a doodlebug hit the Guards Chapel during Sunday
morning service on 18th June 1944. Ironically it was in that same
chapel that he had married Lady Blanche, daughter of the 11th Duke of
Devonshire. They had just celebrated their Silver Wedding."
See above for 'Sir Thomas Slade Court'.
Incumbent Canon Frank Tucker Harvey
[UPDATE 25.3.2021: 'My grandfather
Canon Frank Tucker Harvey lived here – he was vicar of St Clements, St
Lukes and St Michaels? He rode around the town on his bike and
supported the local football team. I probably have pictures of the
vicarage as we visited fairly often. My mother Charis was the 3rd of 3
children. He had parishes in Stowmarket before Ipswich. I attach
photos from my mother’s album showing Frank and his wife Sophia,
commonly called Birdie because of her singing voice, outside the
vicarage on Woodbridge Road in Aug. 1952, the other photo of Frank I
dated Sept. ‘59. I have a copy of the presentation book on his
25th anniversary made to Frank. – Sheila Barton’. Many thanks to Sheila for the information
and the images.]
Canon Harvey, vicar
of St Clement from 1943, and his wife were living at the Woodbridge Road Vicarage, which initially
caused some head-scratching when we first included a page for it. See that page for much more on the vicarage,
explaining that it was attached to the Church of St Michael in Upper
Orwell Street. As Sheila points out, Canon Tucker Harvey was preaching
at St Clement, St Michael and was also responsible for the founding of
the Church of St Luke in 1954 to cater to worshippers on the Rivers
housing estate to the south-east of the town.
1968 document
And to keep it in the family,
so to speak, Sheila contacted her cousin, Bronwen Dace who writes: 'I
am another granddaughter of Cannon Frank Tucker Harvey as my
father was the Rev. Victor Llewelyn Tucker Harvey who took on the
parish of Hasketon in his retirement and died in 2002. I have memories
of staying in the Woodbridge Road vicarage when I was a child and we
spent most of our holidays in Suffolk. The house had a toilet half way
up the stairs with a chain I could barely reach, a loud ticking clock,
a gong in the hall ( which I loved to bang!) and an outside toilet
which frightened me because of the spiders.'
G.R. Clarke reference to St Clement
The following text is taken
from The History & Description
of the Town and Borough of Ipswich including the Villages and Country
Seats in its Vicinity more particularly those situated on the Banks of
the Orwell by G.R.
Clarke, 1830 (see Reading List for an online
version). Modern historians of Ipswich often cite or quote from G.R.
Clarke, so it is instructive to look at the original 1830 book. The
language
and plethora of punctuation make this passage difficult to unpick, but
we have reference to Wykes Bishop and Wykes Ufford hamlets (see our Ransomes page) and it finishes with a brief
description of St Clement's Church. Pages 300-302:-
‘In ancient times, the banks on this
side [the north and east of what we today know as the Wet Dock] of the
river were inhabited by the principle people of the town: and it is
certain that many of their houses have been converted into
malt-offices; several of which are still objects of curiosity, and
their origins worthy of research. We can remember, in our time, when
the most eminent merchants in the place occupied the many capital
mansions near this spot, which are now empty, and going to decay; as it
is, at present, the fashion for them to remove from the
confinement and bustle of business, to their elegant rural
retreats in the suburbs: in the consequence of which, the vicinity of
Ipswich has been very much improved.
St. Clement’s Church was early and
wholly impropriated to the Priory of St. Peter, without any vicarage
created: and its being thus impropriated, when the last value was made,
it was not valued in the king’s books. It was granted, in the seventh
year of Edward VI. [?: reigned 1547-1553] to Webb and Breton; but it
afterwards came to Robert Broke and William Bloise; who presented a
clerk to the rectory, in 1606, and thereby restored the rector to all
his rights and dues. This church is now consolidated with St Helen’s.
“King Richard gave Wykes, a member of Ipswich, to John Oxenford, bishop
of Norwich; which shall answer to Ipswich for £10, and the bishop of
Norwich holdeth it, but it is not known by what service.” It appears by
Ipswich Domesday, that, in the time of Richard I., the town used to pay
£10 per annum, to the bishop of Norwich, – to be deducted out of the
fee-farm rent. The hamlet and manor of Wykes Bishop, was, afterwards
confirmed to John le Gray, bishop of Norwich by King John; and it
belonged to the bishops of Norwich, till it was given to King Henry
VIII., by act of parliament, in 1535; who granted it, 1545, to Sir John
Jermie, Knight. John Cobbold, esq., is, at present, lord of the manor.
While the bishops of Norwich had it, they used, frequently, to reside
at their house, situated near the south side of the road leading
towards Nacton, from Bishops’ Hill; which is, now, a square field, that
appears to have been, formerly, moated round. Many institutions,
&c. are said, in the books at Norwich, to have been granted at this
place. The church of Wykes is sometimes mentioned in old writings; but
it is not known where it stood, and, possibly, it might be no more than
a chapel, for the use of the bishop and his family.
Within this parish lieth, also, part
of the hamlet of Wykes Ufford, though the greater part of it is in the
parishes of Rushmere and Westerfield: it was so called from the family
of De Ufford, who were earls of Suffolk, to whom it was granted. In the
tenth year of Edward II. 1316, Robert de Ufford held, on the day of his
death, a certain soke, in Wyke junta, Gippiwic, with view of frank
pledge, and other appurtenances, to the said soke, belonging to the
King in Capite, by the service of one knight’s fee, and £4 : 13 : 4
rent of the profits of the toll of the town of Ipswich, of the K. of C.
by the service aforesaid, and a tenement called Kettleber-west-heath,
in soccage, by the service of one pair of gilded spurs, annually; and,
also, of the K. in C. the manor of Ufford, by the service of one
knight’s fee. The Willoughbys had it, afterwards, by descent, from
Charles Brandon, duke of Suffolk; in Queen Elizabeth’s time, Sir John
Brewes; then Sir Edmund Witypoll, and it has gone with the Christ
Church state ever since; but the advowson is now vested in the Rev.
J.T. Nottidge, A.M.
Beyond St Clement’s street, between
the two hamlets, stood St. James’s Chapel; which probably belonged to
St. James’s Hospital, situated on a piece of ground abutting on the
Rope-ground, about half an acre, more or less; which is glebe belonging
to St Helen’s rectory. From hence, and from the fair which King John,
in 1199, granted to the lepers of St. Mary Magdalene, in Ipswich, to be
held on the morrow of St. James’ Hospital and the leprous-house of St.
Mary Magdalene; which stood somewhere near St. Helen’s church.
It is not known at what period St.
Clement’s church was built, as it is not mentioned in Doomsday. It was,
probably, erected instead of the dilapidated church of Osterbolt, which
stood near where the stepples formerly were, at the Bull’s Head corner,
and took its name from the east-gate that was near this spot. The
antiquated church of Osterbolt is mentioned in the twenty-first year of
Edward III. 1348; therefore, the present church must have been built
since that time., for it appears to be not very ancient.
The present church has three aisles;
the middle one is narrow, but lofty, and lighted by twelve windows on
each side; the north and south aisles are low, and the pews very
irregular. The altar-piece is modern, handsomely panelled, with
mouldings, in mahogany; in the centre, a circular glory is painted; on
the north side is a painting of the Salutation of the Virgin Mary, and
on the other side, the Agony of Our Saviour, very well executed, by Mr.
J. Smart. The handsome brass chandelier was presented, as the
inscription implies, by “Master Mileson Edgar, to St. Clement’s Parish,
Anno Domini, 1700.” '
St Clements Church Lane
To the left of the Parochial
Church Hall is a very old thoroughfare, now a shadow of its former
self: St Clements Church Lane. At the Grimwade Street end is a pair of
bollards to prevent vehicular access beneath an attractive iron arch
with central hanging lamp. We believe that The Ipswich Society (see Links) lobbied for the lamp to be made
live and lit at night.
Some conflict between the two
street nameplates: on the
church hall side it is merely 'ST. CLEMENTS' (interesting to see the
unnecessary full stop here); on the opposite wall a nameplate with coat
of arms reads 'ST. CLEMENTS CHURCH LANE'. As is common with street
nameplates, there is no possessive apostrophe. One wonders why the
passageway warrants two nameplates when some larger thoroughfares have
one or none, also why they differ. An 1881 map detail of the area can
be viewed on our Street furniture
page (relating to the Ipswich Corporation Water Works); it shows the
western end of 'ST. CLEMENT'S CHURCH LANE', opposite the present site
of Fore Street Baths, (opened 1894) the
houses stand shoulder-to shoulder down to the junction with Angel Lane
and Fore Street. Angel Lane in modern times is a mere entrance to a car
park.
2014 images
[UPDATE
10.12.2014: "There's a very
simple explanation
for this one actually. If you look at your picture of the 'St Clements'
only side, you can see six giveaway screw holes. The 'Church Lane' part
was on a second plate, subsequently removed. I have no idea when it was
taken away, but I can certainly remember it being there! -Nigel" We
clearly didn’t look closely enough. It poses one further question: why
did they split the nameplates?]
2016 images
A few steps along the lane is the side door into the St Clement
Rectory with two ancient headstones cut into the brickwork. The
smaller of the two is inscribed:
'B
+ H
1770'
and the larger, more
difficult to decipher, is dated '1771'. Other
headstones, no doubt moved from their original places in the
churchyard, stand along the lane.
The view from St Clements Church Lane
2016 images
Here is the south elevation of St
Clement, the tower bearing a smart
clock with gold characters.
Facing the south door is a good example of reclamation and
refurbishment of an old building for a new use: residential. The oval
plaque reads:
'SUFFOLK
HOUSING SOCIETY
THIS PLAQUE WAS UNVEILED ON THE
OCCASION OF THE OFFICIAL OPENING OF
THESE HOMES AT
ST. CLEMENT'S CHURCH LANE
ON THE 22ND MAY 2002 BY
THE HON. CHRIS MOLE M.P.'
St Clements Church
Lane and Angel corner
Further down St Clements Church lane, at the north-east corner of the
Fore Street Baths building is a rear entrance and passageway down to
the back of The Lord Nelson public house (fronting 81 Fore Street). The
wrought iron gate with its pleasant metal arch and central lamp, is
nicely lettered and painted. An earlier public house here (c.
1750-1807) was called The Noah's Ark. It could have been renamed The
Lord Nelson when the great sailor was appointed High Sheriff of Ipswich
in 1801. It retained two bars and a separate restaurant room until 1995
when major internal alterations were undertaken [information from
Suffolk CAMRA, see Links]. The original,
older pub building is to the west; The Lord Nelson is Listed Grade II:
"A C17 timber-framed and plastered building with a jettied upper storey
to the west half of the block, with exposed timber-framing and exposed
joists. 2 storeys and attics. The 1st storey windows are 3, 4 and
5-light mullioned casements with leaded lights. The ground storey is in
C20 brick and has continuous windows along the front. Roof tiled, with
3 gabled dormers."
St
Clements
Church Lane comparison
The remarkable period photograph (above right) dates from early to
mid-20th century:
this is confirmed by the poster for the Ipswich Hippodrome advertising
'Matheson Lang' (1879-1948) who was a Canadian-born stage and film
actor and playwright in the early 20th century. The image shown above
comes from John Norman's Ipswich
Icons column in the EADT,
30 June 2018 about the Church of St Clement. Here is St Clements Church
Lane as a 'proper' lane, built up on both sides. The edge of Fore
Street Baths can be seen to the right. At the near left is the St
Clement's Coffe House which appears to be a timber-framed, jettied
building – now long gone. The lane is packed with a row of cottages
with the the south aisle
at the end and the ghostly
tower of St Clement above. At the upper left can be seen part of the
street nameplate: 'St Clements Church Lane', with below it 'St Clements Church' with an arrow
(possessive apostrophes uncertain). The
photograph has recently been dated 1930.
A 2018 photograph from a similar viewpoint is shown above right: rather wonderfully, the
cannon-style bollards are still in
situ joined by the usual host of 21st century
street furniture, bottle-banks, railings and parking ticket machine etc.
We are told that the bollards found
in the lane are cast by one of the local foundries, but at the moment
we can't find the reference; there is no casting-mark on these bollards
[see UPDATE below].
2018
image
(Incidentally, see our Isaac Lord page
for a real cannon once used
as a bollard at the end of nearby Wherry Lane and now in Isaac's
courtyard.)
Angel
Lane, corner with Fore Street, 1930s?
Above: the 'St Clement's Coffee House' is clearly the former Angel Inn
with the cart entrance to the left. Teresa King on the Ipswich Society
Facebook page notes that it was demolished in the late 1930s, having
been in a previous era R. King, Fishmonger and Game Dealer (Teresa's
husband's great-great-grandparent's business). This must have been
post-1900 when the Angel Inn closed down and before the change of use
to the coffee house. Looking at the window advertising – particularly
the angled stickers – it is quite possible that this photograph was
taken at the same time as the view down St Clements Lane (above), so
that would be 1930.
The Ipswich Society's Fore Street
Facelift 1961website
(see Links) under 'History' has more on Angel
Lane and this area.
'Maritime Ipswich 82' bollards
[UPDATE 18.9.2018: The lettered
cast bollards have been found on the Star Lane side of the
churchyard.
2018 images
The pair of chunky bollards with the church in the background and
(above right) with Star Lane and the Ransomes lanwn mower
factory – later, The Foyer – behind. A rare glimpse of this street with
no traffic queue, but the shadow at far left indicates a vehicle about
to enter the picture.
'MARITIME IPSWICH 82
PRESENTED BY
COMPAIR REAVELL'
The Maritime Festival of 1982
marked the beginning of the 'rediscovery' of the maritime history of
Ipswich and its Wet Dock. Exhibitions, a trail of plaques and
improvements to the vicinity, including these bollards, contributed to
the ultimate birth of the Ipswich Maritime Trust (see Links).]
A third of these Maritime Ipswich 82 bollards can still be found in
Fore Hamlet, outside the yard gates behind the restaurant which was
once an electricity sub-station built to supply power to the trams
travelling up Bishops Hill (as shown on
our Coprolite Street page). It would be
interesting to know why this solitary sentinel was sited here, slightly
in the way of vehicles accessing the yard and next to a service cover
on the pavement – perhaps that's what it's protecting?
2020 images
Since installation, chevrons have been painted on the upper part of the
bollard which bears the lettering – functional or grafitti?
See our St Helens Street page for a 1933 photograph showing The Reavell
(later Compair – short for 'compressed air' – Reavell) 'Ranelagh Works'
with its railway line bridge
crossing Ranelagh Road.
1932
advertisement
See also our Plaques page for 'Maritime
Ipswich
82' castings by Crane Co.
See our Warwick Road page for the
ownership (1913) by St Clement Parish charities of a large group of
houses in Woodbridge Road.
See also
St
Clement Congregational Church, Back Hamlet for a Victorian non-conformist place of
worship in this parish.
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